When you visit Italy be ready for pasta and a friendly atmosphere.
A few weeks ago we visited Naples (Napoli), Italy. Brooke is a lucky lady, she has family there for us to visit. So we did the obvious thing. Stayed with them! Kindness from Brooke’s welcoming family members had no limit. Every meal had multiple courses along with good conversation. They even gave up their bedroom for our son to get some sleep. He tends to go to bed around 7:30 PM and we all wanted to stay up later than that. It was certainly a home away from home.
Near Naples you’ll find more famous Italian locations. It was a pleasure to have the chance for day trips to Pompeii and Sorrento.
The reason many of us have heard of Pompeii is that a volcanic eruption in the 1st century AD captured people frozen in ash. Pompeii is so much more than people captured in volcanic ash. At one time it was a large city. The eruption not only froze people in ash it also captured Roman life at the turn of the century. In the photos below you’ll see streets made of rock that are lined with the homes of Romans. There was even an arena in this city. Such an incredible piece of history.
Sorrento is a city along the Mediterranean. When I think of Italy, I now realize I am picturing Sorrento. A small city with a nice coastline, skinny streets and mopeds.
In Naples I saw plenty of Italian fashion on the people there. Look out Seattle hipsters! These guys have style. Perhaps that is why Brooke bought a fancy pants Italian coat. If you get to Naples I suggest not only checking out the fashion, but also trying the gelato and pizza. Both are notably amazing. Wonderful!
Being a long-term visitor in a country allows us to soak it all in. In recent trips I was able to visit the Danube Delta and a citadel officially from the 1300’s (some date it back to the 1200’s). The natural beauty of Romania is tremendous.
Appreciate the Danube Delta
Calling it a biosphere is fitting. Situated where the Danube flows into the Black Sea is the Danube Delta. It sits in Romania, yet it does provide a natural border between Romania and Ukraine. I was privileged to visit and ride around in a boat with an amateur photographer.
Some call the Delta a bird-watchers paradise. But when it comes to seeing animals my timing for a visit was a bit off. In September it is typical for much of the wildlife to have already begun its winter migration. I did get a chance to see a number of pelicans, which I took as a treat.
It was the first and, possibly only visit I’ll have to the region. I count myself as being lucky.
Cool European architecture
In Rasnov there is a citadel some say was built between 1211 – 1215, although the first evidence of it being documented relates to a Tatar invasion in 1335. Who was it built by? Romanians! In the Bran Valley there are other fortifications such as Bran castle. The reason for a concentration of fortifications is that this area was a primary spot to defend against invaders. It is a treat to visit places oozing with this type of history. In fact, Vlad Tepes, also known as Vlad the Impaler, led the country’s defense from these locations among others.
You’ll notice in the photos the citadel has much to it. There are a lot of buildings inside. During battles/wars villagers would live inside. In a very serious sense this is how people survived an invasion.
Introduction: Part of the culture in a post-authoritarian regime is the acceptance that things are just the way they are, no change will occur. People can feel powerless. To illustrate this concept we can use examples I have seen in Bucharest, Romania. The two are:
An acceptance of poor service in the postal system
An acceptance of corruption in medical services
Post office example: I have encountered an acceptance that the postal service is just going to be unreliable. Here is what happened. A family relative sent a package to our address in Bucharest well over a month ago. It has not arrived. When informing Romanians of this issue, I received a horrified look and a statement that the package will either never arrive or may arrive in a number of months (if we are lucky). Moreover, according to locals, it turns out that postal workers will open our package and steal whatever they want with no consequences.
Medical services example: This is an area of great concern. Again, this information is second hand and taken by word of mouth from Romanians. I have been told the public hospitals’ doctors commonly require bribes to operate on a person or simply administer basic care. Apparently when someone needs a surgery we will need to ask other patients what the doctor’s bribe amount is to get medical attention. In terms of priorities. The post office can take second fiddle to medical care. People’s lives are on the line with this issue.
To be clear all of this activity in both examples is illegal, but no one is punished. The problem is people have accepted both as standard. So when there is such a deeply accepted way of life, that the postal service is corrupt, that doctors need to be bribed, what can be done? How can such a deeply rooted element be separated out from others and changed? How can people see that an accepted standard may need to be updated? To inquire on this topic I decided to look into characteristics of the business innovation culture and see if there are possible solutions.
Understand the different types of innovation that you’re trying to foster
Empower champions to push back against bouncers (Friendly spaces to test…ideas, while also providing a level of protection against managers who are charged with focusing on the core.)
Redefine metrics and incentives
Give employees the tools they need to make their case
I found a list of post-authoritarian regime culture patterns. A sampling of key characteristics are below that seemingly apply to Romania. (To research characteristics for cultures in the aftermath of authoritarian rule I referenced the book Transitions from Authoritarian Rule: Tentative Conclusions about Uncertain Democracies. Here is a link https://books.google.ro/books?id=H5lCtdhe8scC&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=false. )
Great uncertainty about outcomes
Fear about the possibility of an authoritarian regression
Constant flux in how the rules…are defined
While reviewing these two lists it appears we may have a fit. For instance, we can put List A: 1 with List B: 1 and 2. Those in charge must understand the innovation to foster. That combined with fear about the possibility of an authoritarian regression and constant flux in rules leads to a potential option. The government can begin a campaign to reduce these two unknowns and reduce these fears. If it is clear the country will not revert to authoritarianism and rules become consistent; then people will have a stable predictable environment. Confidence in the future may be fostered.
Let’s get specific.
Post office example continued: How do we get postal workers to do their job? One option would be to look at List A: 2 and 3. Empower champions while also providing new metrics and incentives. These two can be merged. Provide incentives to reduce mail theft and on-time delivery. On top of that champions in charge of making this change can give a stronger push toward success. In the example from the Forbes’ article success is more likely if the organization picks out a test location for a case study. Once the test locale works out the organization can implement the new policy with a recent success story. That provides buy in, evidence it should work, and therefore a valid reason to forge forward with change.
Medical services example continued: What can be done to reduce the culture of bribery in the medical sector? It may be similar to the post office example. Then again this might be an issue of List A: 3 and 4. Doctors may lack an incentive to refrain from asking for bribes. It may also be a factor that doctors need tools to make the case. Or in other words increased salaries may make the case. Have a look at this Vice article: https://www.vice.com/en_us/article/kwpzq3/why-are-romanian-doctors-leaving-the-country Doctors are not asking for extra cash out of malicious intent to hurt those most in need. Salaries are low. Another way to reduce corruption is to raise salaries, reducing an incentive to ask for bribes. As can be seen from the article medical services issues in Romania are much more complex than bribes and corruption.
Conclusion: I wish I had the answers. Perhaps raising awareness of these difficulties is all I can do. These topics are tough to write about. On the one hand I genuinely want circumstances to improve for Romanians. On the other hand I don’t want to offend by saying it could be better when many Romanians have accepted this way of life. In no way do I believe I know best. I do think Romanians would have a better life if innovation is attempted to combat the legacy of authoritarian culture.
Before we set off for Romania a large amount of people asked if we would study Romanian. Immediately I would respond with a “Yes, however fluency in the language is not what I’m after.” That statement of mine has come to fruition. I can say hello, thank you and a few other phrases in Romanian. I can even understand a few. Through the process of using mobile apps, books, blogs and internet sites the language has come to be more familiar than before. Yet after a month my interest in learning Romanian has already decreased.
From what I can tell there are two major reasons to lose interest in studying the language where a person lives; lack of necessity to learn it and interests being pulled other directions.
Flat out, there is no necessity to learn Romanian. Each day I have gotten by using English and other means of communication. Getting to a level of conversational Romanian would take much more of my time than I am prepared to give. Moreover, it is not that hard to understand plenty of Romanian words and phrases when viewing written text. For instance, take a look at the photo of Romania’s National Institute of Statistics. As an English speaking person no translation is needed.
Time is valuable. With limited time to spend on this planet I want to do numerous activities. A funny turn of events occurred with language learning. In the past week I have started to study up on how to write Python code. This is the equivalent of learning another language. The truth is Python is a language I feel will add more value to my life going forward. I also am finding a genuine interest in studying Python. I can’t say the same for Romanian.
It seems to me a lesson I have learned over and over in life is presenting itself again. Our interests will pull us in the direction we should go. So when it comes to studying a language not only do I need to see a long-term use (meaning beyond this year), I also need to have a genuine interest. As a result, another language has jumped in and supplanted Romanian. That language is Python. I see this as having more long-term use and more interesting. Funny how life has a way of doing this kind of thing to us.
Yesterday I visited the butcher. The same butcher Brooke mentioned in her post the other day. This was the experience.
Before going I knew the three items to purchase:
Cow bones (to make broth)
Prior to going I asked Brooke how she purchased ground meat. I knew the right word and everything. This made it easy for items 1 and 2 above. Item 3 is where it got interesting.
To order the ribeye I did research on what word Romanians use. It is referred to as a ribeye or cowboy (bone-in) cut of meat. It can be ordered at restaurants and, menus even use this exact terminology. As I should have expected the workers at the butcher had no idea what I was talking about. What we have here is a perfect example of a communication barrier. The question: how do we bridge it?
In these circumstances the best way for me to communicate is visual. So body language is useful. But also videos and pictures. I found this video on youtube to show what I wanted. It is a butcher carving every steak from an entire cow. In it you will see the ribeye at minute 11:27. Armed with this video I was able to show the butcher where in a cow’s ribcage the steak comes from. It is not an exaggeration to say as soon as the butcher saw the video, me gesticulating at the steak video and all the other shenanigans a lightbulb illuminated in his mind. He put his finger in the air, gave an “ah ha!” and ran to the back. In his hands was a large piece of meat. It had all the rib bones removed since these are used for soup broth in Romania.
One other point about the steaks, cost. It only cost $6 (23 lei) for four steaks. Total weight of approximately 2 pounds.
All in all – Good times! The steaks are aging now. Tomorrow night we eat.
An image many of us hold about Europe: people traveling about the city by bicycle. Typically, this is a person in the Netherlands, even politicians ride to work there. In Eastern Europe let’s introduce another side of this story. Yes, people ride bikes. Except it is more like NYC than the Netherlands. Cars speed right past within inches and at a number of locations there is no sidewalk or bike lane.
Where there are bike lanes, designated paths and obvious ways to get around (which is about half the time) it is phenomenal. About a week ago I bought a bike from a local guy here in Bucharest. His name is Florin. I met up with him near his home in Sector 3. The ride back home took me on a five-mile route providing a nice tour of the city.
It started in Old Town. An area the gives the look of what we envision for Europe. Old architecture with detailed design and cobble stone streets. While riding I had the thought come to mind that this is what I want. That cool European essence from classic buildings.
After leaving Old Town I had an abrupt change of scenery. The Soviet-era architecture here is such a sharp contrast to the classic European style that it almost gave me whiplash. At this point, I had a realization, the Soviet imagery mixed with European is a great way to describe Bucharest.
The city has two, if not multiple, stories behind each unique element. In this case I am only speaking of architecture. This topic could easily include more than Soviet and old Europe, but I’ll stick to that. When in a traffic circle a person can see a Soviet-era bloc apartment building, turn 45 degrees left, and see a beautiful French-style building. This is due to heavy French influence at one point in the past.
As I rode north leaving the traffic circles with eyesores and beauty next to each other I came upon acres of green-space. Parks in Bucharest are a highlight. The rest of my ride was full of large trees, green grass, wide bike lanes and a cool Eastern Europe evening.
Bucharest is a complicated city. At the same time as having picturesque French architecture and wonderful parks it also has its Soviet past. This creates a country and culture not quite sure what it is at this time. Is it more a beautiful western European city or is it a post-Soviet gray eyesore? At this moment it is somewhere in the middle. My thought is that as time passes between the present and that Soviet past Bucharest will work its way back to beautiful.
Want to lose half an inch off your waistline?! (heat, walking around and food quality)
We have been here two weeks. A phenomenon has been observed. Brooke first brought it up. From the fit of our clothing, we noticed each has lost about an inch off our waistline. After throwing ideas around with Brooke, there are three likely reasons; heat, walking all over the place and food quality.
In my earlier post the heat was brought up. Yes, it was 90 to 100+ Fahrenheit each day. But we have adapted. Here is a screenshot of the temperature on August 3rd.
That was our second day here. It was toasty. That said, it didn’t have too big of an impact on us. Except for when we walk around…
Walking in our neighborhood is currently the best way to get around. Once we get bikes we will be riding for our errands. Until then, we are walkers!! While getting our ~ 10,000 steps a day, we are shedding those pounds. As many of you know we need to go for walks with our dog, Jethro. He really needs it. We also walk the area to learn the neighborhood and city. We walk to get household goods (which can be difficult to figure out). Lastly, we walk to get food…
Food! This is different in Bucharest and, quite frankly, Europe. Different standards are in place. Almost every other day (maybe closer to every day) I have had a chocolate croissant, or in Romanian, corn cu ciocolata, or a lot of labels use French so they say pains au chocolat. The taste is different. The cause for the different taste? The flavor is simply chocolate and bread. No added corn oils. No added dyes. To me the flavor is much better and more to the point, the food is a healthier. Another factor with food is portion sizes. We have stopped to get ice cream a few times now. The portion size for a scoop is around ¼ the U.S.
Not everyone is able to jump from the U.S. to Europe for a year. So most cannot do the ‘leave the U.S. for a year weight loss program.’ The point is we notice differences. The impact on our bodies is great. And Isaac loves the foods, especially the ice cream.
A week ago we arrived in Bucharest, Romania. While living here for a year we will certainly encounter cultural differences. But it would be a shame to overshadow the physical differences. Among the many a few would be smells, layout of the city (including a lack of sidewalk space) and coffee.
We arrived in a heat wave. The smells are overpowering. Garbage in allies is rotting, I am sweating my gonads off, yet that is the extent. It is not the same as Bangkok, for instance. Where the smell of sewage seems to hit you every 10 meters. Our dog, Jethro, loves the smells. Specifically, the smells of Herastrau park. This is a well-done public park and, it is big! According to Wikipedia 187 hectares big with a 74 hectare lake in the middle (a hectare is 2.471 acres). Jethro probably has zillions of new smells to take in. There is a Japanese garden we still have to visit, several restaurants, a museum, a small fair with a Ferris wheel and much more. Here is a link to its page on Trip Advisor: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g294458-d548240-Reviews-Herastrau_Park-Bucharest.html
The layout of the city and lack of sidewalks should be discussed as the same topic. Other than the obvious statement that older cities were not designed for cars. There also does not appear to have been a plan. I am used to a grid system. As we navigate the bending streets it has been a rare occasion when a straight line from one point to another is available.
Similar to many cities outside the U.S. streets will commonly have no sidewalk or a sliver of sidewalk. Where there is a sidewalk, even a sliver, cars are likely parked on it. Think of this circumstance combined with our son in his stroller. That is the difficulty. It works out in the end. But takes a week of getting used to. Bottom line, we have to walk in the street with our one-year old in his stroller, blind corners along with crumbling sidewalks and cars parked on them.
Coffee is part of the Romanian culture. Although we have not joined Romanians for coffee. At some point we shall. Just not quite yet. The coffee experience for me has been strong and is part of the smells of the city. Each day we have started it with a cup of joe. We bought a French press at the local Ikea. World, I ask you, what would we do without Ikea?!? Of course, I have been doing my unsalted butter in the coffee thing. This is related to my eating style that includes good fats for keeping me satiated. Today I am drinking that cup of coffee in a Starbucks souvenir mug. See the pic below. When I saw these mugs I had to have them for us. It was a splurge. But worth it.
Our time in Bucharest so far has been both difficult and rewarding. There were a lot of basics to get in place and learn. When it comes to what really matters these physical differences are minor. Keep in mind change is hard. The smallest shift in routine feels like it is magnified 10x due to bringing along a one-year old and a dog. As we push through each challenge we count our successes.
A tally of each would be lengthy, so we won’t get into that. Let’s just say the successes outweigh the difficulties. As the days pass we gain knowledge about our neighborhood, Cartierul Francez (translated as the French village) and our city, Bucharest.
The purpose of this blog is to explore my thoughts and the world around me. This is a broad objective so topics may appear disconnected. The intersection between topics is me. My interests drive the site’s direction. These are current interests:
My year in Bucharest. It started August 1, 2017.
The place of men in our culture. How men may focus on inner growth and continue to become a better version of themselves. For me, this will end up connecting with hunting, the male mind-set, and nature.
Evolution of culture over thousands of year up to the recent era.
Health for all people, especially me.
Family. I have a wife, son and dog. My interest here hammers in on creating a space for our son’s development.
Sources for this information typically come to me from Podcasts. An intention of mine is to credit sources. At times this may not be the original source. Although I fully intend to make a best effort.